Saturday, September 6, 2008

Surfing

Right now, it is Saturday afternoon and I am trying to get my homework done so I can prepare for what is at hand. As many of you may know, Tropical Storm Hanna is bearing down on our beloved state of North Carolina. Now is a time for waiting. As I look out the window, the sun is shining very bright on Ocracoke Island. This is strange because we are experiencing the tail end of a major storm and experiencing 40+ mph winds. 
I continue to watch the flags, waiting for the much anticipated wind switch. As the storm moves by, we stop experiencing the southeasterly blow and the wind begins a steady shift westward. Hopefully, the wind will soon be blowing the desired northwest causing the waves to clean up and organize. I looked at the surf this morning. It was a tad bit out of control breaking on the fourth sand bar out and maxing at fifteen feet. These are not quite the desired conditions.  The surf forecast looks golden. Today is a day of waiting, with the possibility of a wicked evening session, but tomorrow is looking great. At approximately 8:00 p.m. the wind will shift around to the northwest, blowing towards the incoming surf. This will sculpt the waves into desirable form and will reduce them to a more manageable size. Hopefully, when I wake up tomorrow morning I will experience six to eight foot, head high to three foot overhead, waves with good conditions. I'm stoked.
I must pick out my best choice from my arsenal of surfboards, also known as a quiver. My choices include my 6'2" Aloha (great if you don't want to break your board), 5'10" Kechele quad-fin, 6'0" Kechele thruster, 5'10" WRV potato chip (potato chip means very thin), or my 6'0" 7S superfish. Overall, I think it makes most sense to use either my 5'10" quad or the 6'2" Aloha if it is too big. The superfish is a good choice but the other two are dinged so I will use the Aloha or quad.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Sounds to me like you had a great time at the beach. I have always wanted to learn how to surf, unfortunately I never had a proper instructor and my friends who already knew were always too busy to teach me. I always thought about what it would be like to be able to ride the waves right after the passage of a hurricane or tropical storm and it really just seems riveting. If the waves turned out to be as large as you were predicting then I am sure it was a rush to be able to smoothly ride through the wave knowing of the extreme and harsh conditions that just passed. I hope you had a great time at the beach and maybe you can show me how the waves really get sometime.